It was a warm November afternoon in 2004 when I first heard the story of Klein Genot, seated alongside the country estate's dam. While two black swans on the water were soaking up the sun, owners Joey and Angie Diamond proudly regaled how, when they'd bought the property in 2000, it was little more than a tangle of Port Jackson trees.

Since then they'd built a Cape Dutch homestead with six guest bedrooms and a health spa, while cultivating a fruit orchard and 20 hectares of merlot, shiraz and cabernet vines stretching to the foot of the mountains at the back of the property.

A few weeks ago I heard the story again. But this time it had a new chapter. Those vineyards, which the red-wine-loving Diamonds had been so enthusiastic about during that lazy Saturday lunch, have borne their first fruits, as it were.

"These wines are made for drinking," says Joey of the 2005 Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon that comprise the estate's maiden vintages.

"The aim is to make young, modern wines," echoes Angie.

And they've succeeded.

Even though the wines are made from vines that are only four years old, they show much promise. The Shiraz is very vigorous, featuring the peppery, spicy flavours typical of the French Rhone style rather than those of the Australian varietals.

The Merlot, in turn, is a personal favourite. With a softness to the tannins and a bit of depth, it's plummy and big on fruits after being predominantly tank fermented with a small percentage matured in new French oak barrels.

The Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to age well, is more full-bodied and could best be described as curvy, featuring a touch more wood and tannins.

And when combined with the dark, chocolatey flavours and lovely acid of the Cabernet Franc, it creates the flagship Black Swan Blend — a fine wine benefiting from 12 months in all-French oak barrels.

Easily the highlight of the 2005 vintage, I wasn’t the only one enamoured by it during the Klein Genot range's launch at the V&A Waterfront's Baía Seafood Restaurant. Even Joey, who surely tasted his fair share of the dark red stuff during the winemaking process, was as pleased with the results as child with a new toy. And suitably proud.

But, emphasising that he's no wine snob and that these wines are made for enjoying, the man behind Prima Toys admitted: "I'm not a winemaker. I'm a creator, I'm a brander, I'm an entrepreneur."

Which is why he and Angie brought in winemaker Mark Carmichael-Green, a veteran of Zonnebloem wines, to oversee the process. With a focus on quality over quantity — only 26 000 bottles were made for the first vintage — he chose to crush the grapes at optimal ripeness so as to create wines that are fruit and terrior driven. The idea, he says, is to reflect the cold wet winters with leaf canopies and long ripening process that are characteristic of the Franschhoek valley where Klein Genot is situated.

And with all the cultivars grown on the estate, it was possible to use grapes from specific rows of vineyards so Carmichael-Green could return to look at their development for future vintages.

That future is clearly important for the Diamonds, with plans underway for an estate-based cellar featuring a tasting room, cellar sales and a restaurant.

And the vines are playing their part: all involved are really excited by the 2006 vintage.

"We were able to make changes based on what we did for the maiden vintages and the expectations are great," reckons Carmichael-Green.

In the meantime we've got the classy 2005 vintage to enjoy. Pass me a glass, I'll drink to that.

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