My first introduction to the Italian restaurant, Meloncino, wasn't altogether authentically Italian; instead it involved a bunch of Russians, a bottle of Vodka and countless toasts to the mother city or was it the mother country… "Nastarovia"!

My interest was peaked, and so I had to revisit this sleek modern Italian restaurant (minus the Russians) which in some ways seemed so not Italian — no checkered tablecloths here…

Once my guest for the night and I were seated, one of the owners, Paolo, sauntered up to us — dark hair neatly slicked back, pointy leather shoes leading the way — and I almost expected his opening line to be benvenuta!

Meloncino in fact has two sister restaurants in Italy and was born out of Rome, and as much as it's sincerely Italian, it reeks of the new Italy: stylish al fresco dining, a floating bar, cocktail menu, and definite potential for a 'who's who' after party.

We however were seated in the section of Meloncino, set aside for a slightly more sophisticated experience.

The way to a women's heart...

Edwin our waiter for the evening approached us with the biggest smile I've ever seen and two glasses of Italian aperitif — just to stimulate our appetites of course. One sip and I'm sold — clearly those Italians know the way to a women's heart.

Melocino has only imported chefs in the kitchen — pure-bred Italians: André Volpe, Luciano Monsilio and Roberto Di Raffaele. Their food is definitely not "Proudly South African" says Paolo, reiterating that most of there food besides the fruit and veg is imported. As I look down at my glass of Italian still water, it isn't hard to believe…

Paolo suggests a number of dishes to try, many of which I have never even heard of before — including pasta in a bag — "Spaghetti Scoglio in Carta Fata" Paola rattles of in heavy Italian, "is spaghetti with mixed seafood, fresh cherry tomato and chilli, wrapped in a transparent wrapping, which is put in the oven and cooked as is," the flavours and smell of the dish all blending into one.

The menu boasts some interesting antipasti, salads, pasta dishes, meat dishes, wood-fired pizzas and various other authentic dishes. The open-fire grill is one concept that catches my attention. Says Poalo: "It's like a braai; we place the meat on an open-fire grill and just add some basics like sea salt or olive oil to bring out the flavours of the meat."

Hmm… tough choice…

After a glass of wine each — Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc and Nederberg Pinotage — (the restaurant having won a Diners' Club Platinum Award for their wine list this year) we decided to share the Antipasti Misti, a selection of antipasti, including rotollo di mozzarella (mozzarella), salmone marinato (salmon), tortino di zucchini (baby marrow) and tronchetto melanzana (eggplant).

A great choice since each of us liked different parts of the antipasti which makes it an ideal starter to share and you get to try more than one new dish.

The rotollo di mozzarella was served in balsamic with basil and pine nuts — a heady combination, and while the salmon was pretty average, the tortino di zucchini was by far my favourite — a decadent concoction of baby marrow in a creamy sauce. Sarah my guest loved the eggplant.

For mains we couldn't help trying the same dish, which in retrospect was a bit of a mistake. I was toying with the fillet of linefish encrusted with a potato gratin and oven roasted… but could not help choosing the Millefoglie di Filetto con Funghi Porcini e salsa Tartufata — medallions of fillet topped with a creamy truffle and porcini mushroom sauce, served with potato purée.

The sauce was a definite winner, the creamy truffle melting in my mouth. The meat unfortunately wasn't that satisfying a little weak on the flavour side or perhaps just a little overdone — maybe Proudly South African then has some merit after all.

The prices however were extremely reasonable if you take into account the service, general quality and setting of the restaurant. A main meal priced at about R150.

Secret in a bottle

Our highlight of the evening arrived in a tot glass — the 'Meloncino'. Although we could not procure the ingredients of the drink from our hosts, the fresh watermelon on the nose had us begging for more…

The evening seemed short but before we knew it we had been sitting at the table catching up for hours, oblivious to anything but the great food and company, and I must say although spoilt we felt completely at home.

Unfortunately we did not have much space left for dessert, but did share the Semifreddo di Nutella — Semi-frozen Nutella mousse, a perfect ending to the meal not too rich, and not too heavy.

We left with stars in our eyes, a little in love with those mini Melocinos, and unfortunately without any steamy Italians...

Meloncino, Shop 259, Upper Level, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town. Contact them on +27 21 419 5558 or visit www.meloncino.co.za