The narrow walkway lined with lavender which leads to the entrance of Societi, draws you in from Orange Street to a world set apart from its neighbours, and places you on location in Rome or, perhaps even, Provence...

Having recently moved into a gorgeous heritage building — Societi's new home isn't even comparable to its former location at the V&A Waterfront.

It's dimly lit rooms comforted by stone walls and creaky wooden floors embraces you with the warmth of home, yet the venue, although simplistic and relaxed, still exudes the elegance and charm of a new world Italian eatery.

It's one of those places where you instantly have to order a fat glass of red wine and a side of bread with olive oil and balsamic, because the mood is just right.

A bit of old and new

When Societi Bistro opened its doors five years ago in the V&A Waterfront, owners Tammy Botbyl and Peter Weetman dreamed it would be a slice of the old world in the heart of the new, where ritual and tradition would be the antidote to the stresses of modern life. Now, in their new home; their dream has finally become a reality.

After travelling through London and Europe, they decided they wanted a more flexible and creative environment for Societi to come alive in.

And so, the newborn Societi is the new neighbourhood local where rooms with names like The House Kitchen, The Playroom, The Drawing Room, and The Snug Bar, all speak of a home from home.

To complete the picture one would just need a loud Italian grandmother in the kitchen, but no such luck here. Societi has a young and energetic head chef, Stéfan Marais, who has a real love for seasonal and regional cooking.

He does, however, have some European experience, with a stint in Gordon Ramsay’s prestigious Royal Hospital Road restaurant.

Fare or not fair?

The evening my partner Richard and I visited Societi, the air was warm but the wind gusty, and so although al fresco dining would have been magical, we opted for an intimate table inside.

On our way in we bumped into the Editor of The Big Issue, Donald Paul, who only had five words for me: "It's just wonderful inside there." And so my expectations were set.

Although we took our own wine on this occasion (corkage is R30), a brief squiz at the wine list suggested that you could probably find a favourite between a Fleur du Cap, Durbanville Hills or Stellenzicht on the list at a rather reasonable price (by the glass or bottle), or perhaps even settle on an old timer like a Chateau Libertas or Nederburg Baronne. The most expensive wine on the list — the Plasir de Merle Cabernet (R215) is a rather acceptable bottle of red that isn't going to break the bank either.

Our waitress, who was sweet to say the least, noted that there were some specials that evening, and so we tried one of them as a starter to share — the chicken salad (R50), which was essentially two rather uninspired chicken breasts with sliced courgettes, roasted baby tomatoes and greens. Bland, uninteresting, and overpriced I wouldn't recommend it.

The steak test

I thought that I would have fish for a change, but not being the biggest fan of kingklip (the only fish on the menu besides the classic Bouillabaisse — a traditional Provencal fish stew), I just had to rate their steak instead.

The 180-gram Fillet Steak Au Poivre (R95) with Madagascan green peppercorns, brandy, cream sauces and wilted spinach with roasted vegetables (which I opted for) buried itself in my stomach like a homesick mole — a welcome feeling after a disappointing salad. I must say though that next time I'll definitely opt for the larger portion (R130), or perhaps try their 250-gram Aged Rump with gorgonzola foam or béarnaise, wilted spinach and frites (R95).

And of course like any good Italian joint, there's a host of pasta and of course pizza on the menu. Don't wish for a Butlers special here, with rather delectable choices of toppings like: salmon, crème fraîche and capers; goats cheese, brie, parmesan and gorgonzola; and wild mushroom, bacon, rocket. They all go for R50 which is reasonable.

Being a pasta fan, Richard opted for the Carbonara (R45/R65) made with pancetta, egg and cream, which wasn't all that tasty, perhaps even a little dry.

Adventures in food

Still a little hungry, and not in the mood for dessert, I thought a selection of Hand-crafted Artisan cheese would be my best bet. The waitress brought a number of cheeses for me to choose, as well as a scale to weigh them on which was rather entertaining.

Although this dessert comes with olives, chutney, bread, bread sticks and a selection of cheeses, be aware that your selection is bound to weigh in at a hefty price since these are hand-crafted — mine at R80!

Richard, who always seems a little more adventurous than me when eating out, decided to try the special chocolate dessert with Shiraz sauce (R40). Although rather small it was comprised of a decadent cone of rich chocolate dipped in Shiraz sauce. Note: You won't want to share.

Despite one or two wrong food choices on our part, the amiable and accommodating service and gorgeous setting, definitely warrants a second visit to Societi, if only to drink a glass of red wine and try their pizza.

Societi Bistro, 50 Orange Street, Gardens, Cape Town. Contact them on +27 21 424 2100