Jozi and Pretoria

Cornuti
Illovo, +27 11 268 6684. Pizzas R55 - R95.

Cornuti has a 20-year pedigree in super-thin pizza bases. The chic, revamped venue offers an encyclopaedic list, from traditional (including buffalo mozzarella, Parma and porcini) to ultra-fusiony, such as their Thai prawn pizza. Stoneground flour in their base is a plus, though on some days it is so thin, crisp and almost yeast-free that a disconcerting matzos-like texture reigns. The generous, flavoursome cooked tomato base is a strong point. My gripe with the Margherita is the use of dried oregano (they graciously substitute traditional fresh basil at no charge).

Wines: large, varied range, seven by the glass options. Corkage R50.

Il Giardino
Milpark, +27 11 482 4978. Pizzas R39 - R120.

A super-stylish restaurant with a short pizza list offering mainly traditional toppings. Happily only a few Americanisms (such as the Mexicana) have been thrown in because of customer pressure. Loads of flavour, ample tomato in the form of a cooked Napoletana sauce, and quality extras are the best features here. The Prosciutto di Parma and Buffalo Mozzarella Special are winners. The base, though, is a work in progress: super-thin it may be, but light it ain't. Perhaps extra proving is needed, or a hotter oven?

Wines: list currently under expansion to include many by the glass. Corkage R50.

Lapa Fo
Emmarentia, +27 11 486 2651. Pizzas R49 -R84.

Longtime pizza guru Percy Mosedie trained in Naples, and is obsessed with the perfect base and crust: the swelling rim of his pizzas, all blackened blisters and flaky bubbles, is glorious.

For a perfect dough, he even de-chlorinates Joburg water! The menu offers traditional and surreal combos such as smoked salmon, brie, cranberry salsa and avocado, which seem far too undignified for his beautiful base. Why deviate, when the perfect Margherita (San Marzano tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, fior de latte mozzarella, basil leaves) wins every time?

Wines: two reds and two whites, ever changing, all available by the glass. Corkage R25.

Pomodoro
Morningside, +27 11 803 6554. Pizzas R47 - R79.

An elegant restaurant with matching glam, minimalist pizzas: super-thin, airy crisp base and the lightest touch with almost entirely traditional toppings (best quality in the city) from a refreshingly short menu. The fresh tomato layer is subtle but flavoursome, the mozzarella the creamiest ever. Unlike most places, soft white fior de latte mozzarella is standard, with imported buffalo mozzarella (R40) on request. Italian co-owner Stefano Mas had his pizza training in one of Naples' best pizzerias.

It's why Jozi's best pizza has to be the Parma e Rucola, scattered with wafer-thin Parma and organic rocket after cooking.

Wines: small, mainly local range with low mark-ups. Many offered by the glass. Corkage R40.

Sale e Pepe Da Giovanni
Morningside, +27 11 883 7020. Pizzas R59.50 to R89.50.

Respected old-timer Giovanni Lecca offers a traditional pizza menu in a chic eatery. Though on a bad day the fairly thin base can be too dense and unrisen around the edges, it's good more often than not.

The cooked tomato topping is quite heavily seasoned and herby (almost ragout-like in taste), which makes their pizzas incredibly delicious but perhaps frowned on by purists. Tomato is liberal and the mozzarella ratio is thankfully sparse. A deli counter provides pizza topping extras like imported coppa, Parma, salami and fior de latte mozzarella.

Wines: extensive winelist, with a Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay by the glass. Corkage R30.