Tasked with finding winning flavours, Kim Maxwell, Andrea Burgener and Tracy Gielink went on the curry trail in Cape Town, Joburg and Durban.

Can you tell your biryani from your korma? South Africa's culinary spectrum may be broad but all too often there is cross-over between ethnic groups. Committed to investigating home-grown Indian cuisine, our team found it challenging to pinpoint specifics.

How do the curries to be found in Durban, Cape Town and Jo'burg compare? What relation, if any, do they bear to the various cuisines of the Indian subcontinent?

Ultimately, we set out to discover what constitutes good Indian eating in a local context, even if we sometimes had to overlook service and setting.

Durban and Johannesburg's Indian communities share common ground with the lighter cooking styles of southern India and parts of Pakistan. Curries based on masala spices and water, tomato and sometimes tamarind, are typically accompanied by rotis and chapatis.

As Kim Maxwell discovered, 90 percent of Indian restaurants in Cape Town (many in Durban and Gauteng too) use imported chefs focused on north Indian options such as skewered meats and buttery naans. Characterised by richer, thicker cream, butter or yoghurt gravies, a ground cashew-nut base is typical in dishes such as korma. Coconut milk and even Anglo-Indian butter chicken may feature.

Along with tacky Taj Mahal décor and peculiar service, most menus offer a hodgepodge of curry regions — even reputable venues double up on basic sauces.

Thanks to its large Indian and Pakistani population, Johannesburg is blessed with a rich array of options. Andrea Burgener recommends veering off the beaten track to the predominantly Pakistani eateries of Fordsburg and Mayfair. South India has had the least influence on Joburg Indian cuisine; dosas, idlies, and Kerala's coconut-based curries are few and far between.

Roland Peters of Maharajah in Cape Town points out that Indian food has a reputation for being hot. Yet while Goa's vindaloos tend to be fiery, south Indian biryanis are mild; southern fish curries characterised by complex spice blends. To appreciate the flavours try ordering at medium heat, extra chilli on the side. Add dahls for 'gravy' with vegetarian dishes.

Vinod Harie of Durban's The Spice Emporium says imported Indian dishes use more exotic blends than Durban's simpler spice counterparts. Harie reckons Durban curries are hotter because they upped the chilli.

"When Mahatma Ghandi left in the 1940s to the time Mandela was released we were closed up — no trade, no cultural links, no friendship with India, he explained.

"We created our own taste that wasn't affected by north or south or east or west India. People started saying, 'Oh, my granny makes lovely curry' and then the recipe was passed on."

Can be rather tricky

Getting the order right is tricky if you're keen to eat authentically. Try understanding an Indian or Pakistani waiter with a strong dialect. "If you give me your good name I will fax you the menu. What are you looking for: Indian, Chinese, Mexican steak?" was one disconcerting Cape response.

Seated in the venue, 20 minutes spent dissecting a vast menu and quizzing an amused Pakistani waiter was hit-and-miss on the plate. Indian dishes were burrowed amid international menu items — grilled tikka meat partnered French fries. This occurs throughout South Africa —one Jo'burg restaurateur claimed regulars enjoy this fusion twist on Indian dishes from home.

Halaal restaurants banning alcohol often produced the tastiest fare. It was rare to find good off-the-beaten-track Indian haunts in the Cape, though. Generally foreign Indians nominated North Indian restaurants where their chef mates cooked, while local Indians complained about the prices — their homemade curries were better, of course.

Tracy Gielink and Andrea Burgener grappled with their large Indian communities, noting gaps between Westerner-orientated suburban venues and highly popular, if invariably downbeat Indian joints. While investigating our culinary backyards we realised we'd only skimmed the surface.

Six spots reviewed

Swanky Indian

Formal Indian tablecloths, bound menus, uniformed waiters, often a wine list. Slick contemporary to dated, over-decorated styles.

Banjaara
Cedar Square, Fourways, Johannesburg. 
Tel +27 11 467 7593.

Though set in an uninspiring, deeply suburban shopping strip location, a wondrously inspiring menu, ornate décor and sweetly attentive service quickly help you forget the outside world.

Dishes here — almost all from north and central India — are cooked with a subtle hand. It's hard to choose favourites, as in truth I've yet to have something bad. From the mostly mild curries, Matar mushrooms and Bombay potatoes stand out as particularly brilliant. The lamb dhal gosht is just sublime.

Every dish has its own distinctive spice mix, making a nice change from many a curry house where a base sauce goes into a plethora of dishes different only in name.

There are grand volumes of butter in the saucier curries, but somehow you don't leave feeling ill. The naans are great; crisp but soft and yielding, like delicious hot duvets. The chefs here have the tandoori thing down pat: big gorgeous chunks of chicken or fish, charred and crisp outside, meltingly tender inside, are some of the best you'll find.

I'm always a bit disappointed about the smallish, uninspired dessert array on local Indian eateries. Sadly, Banjaara is no exception. They probably have no dessert chef but could at least buy in some fabulous sweetmeats that Fordsburg delis sell. Too bad they don't. — AB

Wines: extensive, suitable list. Corkage R20. Spend: Around R180.

Chandani
85 Roodebloem Ave, Woodstock, Cape Town. 
Tel +27 21 447 7887.

First impressions were positive thanks to quality tableware and Indian woodwork framing doorways of an old building. The extensive dinner menu didn't disappoint either, with halaal north Indian-dominated tandoor meats and tikka starters plus multiple vegetarian options.

Service is attentive; owners Jagdish and South African wife Dina offering useful menu assistance while chutneys and pappadums arrive for nibbling on (don't take his ingredient translations as gospel though).

Scarf-like romali roti tasted plain compared with buttered garlic naan. Here heat tends to be pared down — Murg Kadai chicken with wok-tossed green peppers wasn't 'hot' as described — but cashew-based Peshwari gosht (lamb), a chef's special, was creamily pungent.

All tasty enough, but on sampling the non-meaty items the real skill became evident — Jagdish and his chefs are Hindu vegetarians.

Tawa vegetables smothered in delicious gravy and desiccated coconut couldn't be faulted but for promised paneer cheese being hard to find. I'll return for dahl — medium-spiced dahl Maharaja is outstanding, black lentils and chickpeas slow-cooked with tomato over charcoal — as will my carnivorous dining partner.

With kulfi ice-cream and sweet lassi to finish (and leftovers packed for later), I couldn't help thinking we'd only scratched the surface of Chandani's vegetarian repertoire. — KM

Wines: Small, well-priced list. Corkage R35 (1 bottle only). Spend: Around R180.

Kashmir
11 McCausland Crescent, Umhlanga, Durban. Tel +27 31 561 7486.

Worn Persian carpets gently entice diners upstairs to the upmarket Kashmir with its formal interior. Wicker armchairs on a balcony complete with daytime sea views allow languishing colonial-style. The menu states there is no such thing as Indian cuisine; rather the cuisines of India. The diverse repertoire is represented largely by north Indian dishes. When quizzed about the specialities during dinner, the old-school waiter smilingly said, "Everything is special".

With more prompting we elicited some recommendations. Butter chicken has become a staple at many Indian restaurants and this version was tasty but overshadowed by gosht (lamb) Pasanda. Cooked in an almond and cream sauce with saffron, the beautifully tender meat was complemented by delicate sauce.

The find of the evening was Navratan korma — mixed vegetables cooked in cashew nut gravy and juxtaposed with the sweetness of added fruit. Rice and sambals were included, the roti and noteworthy naan were additional extras. The meal was finished off with a lassi yoghurt drink that settled the richness of curry perfectly. But service was not as good as the food, thanks to harried waiters and a function in the conference room. — TG

Wines: Average, crowd-pleasing list. Not halaal but no BYO. Spend: Around R125. Weekend buffet R130.

Maharajah
230 Long Street, Cape Town. Tel +27 21 424 6607.

Considering that Maharajah¡'s Rondebosch branch is a vegetarian take-away, expanded non-meat offerings might be expected in this popular venue. Instead there is only a south Indian-cum-Durban leaning on a small menu grouped under seafood, poultry, etc.

No points for interior décor either, with curtains resembling duvet covers in a dowdy maroon colour scheme. If charming Indian owner Roland Peters isn't around, service and explanations are perfunctory.

Nevertheless the fish curry is delicious, fresh pieces cloaked in a complex, spice-heady tomato sauce.

The other speciality is lamb on the bone, slow-cooked with layered flavouring. Our chicken biryani under-delivered but butter chicken and rotis satisfied two children afraid of spicy heat.

Dahl and mango achar were tasty; the mixed vegetable dish ordinary and over-priced (the mushroom, pea and brinjal might have made a tastier choice). On that note, consensus from the table of seven was that a few dishes stood out. Portions were small yet prices on a par with more upmarket Indian venues. We never saw dessert menus and yoghurt lassi orders seemed an easier way of coping with the waiter's frequent disappearing acts. — KM

Wines: Unexciting, inexpensive list. R20 corkage. Spend: Around R150.

Adventurous foodies only

The appeal is authentic food, not atmosphere. Tacky décor and challenging service are standard. Often no alcohol allowed.

Karachi
47 Bree Street, Fordsburg, Johannesburg. 
Tel +27 11 838 7417.

One of Fordsburg's oldest venues is rated by many Pakistani diners as one of the best. It's often overlooked because of its non-charming position on the main drag, thick with angry traffic.

Inside things are surprisingly quiet and very Fordsburg — a little kitsch and tatty, with faux-gold plaster wall reliefs as the main décor. The style is largely Pakistani — at least that is what the chefs, manager and menu will tell you — though classic Indian dishes such as buttter chicken, korma and palak paneer also feature, slightly Pakistan-ised, which usually means more chilli and oil.

Vegetarian dishes are interesting, though the oil thing gets a bit out of control on some: the dhal Makheni, even though deliciously spiced, is drowning in the stuff.

Any dish with bhindi (okra) is a success, as seems the way in most Pakistani haunts. Tandoori dishes are also winners: incredibly tender, flavourful tandoori chicken Boti on my last visit was gobbled up in seconds. Not so sure about the chewy chips and flabby salad served alongside.

Naans are utterly wonderful, the best thing on the menu. Most heavenly of all is the roghni naan with its topping of butter and sesame. — AB

Wines: No booze allowed. Wash it down with a trashy pink Bombay Crush. Spend: Around R125.

Authentic eat in or take away.

Casual restaurants with minimal atmosphere, or venues suited to take-aways.

Indian summer
Sunningdale Centre, Umhlanga Rocks Drive, Sunningdale, Durban North. 
Tel +27 31 562 1234.

Very much a product of its suburban location, this unpretentious venue happily packs steaming food for take-aways and affable owner Bimal Kanakia is always on hand. With wrought-iron chairs and tables bedecked in linen and overlays (complete with dovetailed serviettes), it stayed casual enough for the local clientele but is somehow lacking in warmth.

Once you have sampled the food though, the surroundings become immaterial. Hailing from Mumbai, friendly Bimal might talk you through nuances of the menu, offer recommendations and take orders.

Chaat sold on the streets of his hometown as snacks to passers-by have been cleverly incorporated to offer an authentic, tasty and value-for-money alternative to run-of-the-mill starters.

When it comes to main courses, highlights are perfectly plump prawns in a Goan curry (a steal at R69) or lamb reincarnated as korma and rogan josh respectively, while the seeming simplicity of dhal Makhani — bean and lentil curry — left me amazed at the depth of flavour.

Indian Summer's curries seem to have amazing subtleties in their spicing that differentiates them from many restaurants of this genre. Romali rotis are generous in size, as they should be, and bread and rice is charged for. — TG

Wines: Cheap and cheerful list. Rather BYO, corkage R15. Spend: Around R110.Restaurant prices are an indication per head for three to five dishes shared between two, excluding drinks and service.

Best street food

In Jozi: World of Samoosas, Upper level, Oriental Plaza. Tel +27 11 833 1139. Pumping, busy take-away, famous all over town for their samoosas. These delicate beauties are only fried on order, and have the lightest pastry imaginable. Prawn, coconut and potato make just a few great fillings. Also wonderful take-away naans and parathas.

In Durbs: Patel Vegetarian Refreshment Room, 202 Dr Yusaf Dadoo (formerly Grey) Street. Tel +27 31 306 1774. The Patel family has dished up vegetarian food for 90 years. The likes of potato bhajias, chilli bites and sweet meats are supporting acts to tasty curries (bean, mixed veg or lentil) in bunny chows (R10 to R25). A cheap, transient place to absorb cultural flavour and diners eating fast yet appreciatively.

In Cape Town: The Kumars, 283 Lansdowne Road (near Dulux Paints), Claremont. Tel +27 21 671 5862. The best-known bunnies may be at Sunrise Chip 'N Ranch in Mowbray, but Durban couple Rodney and Salo Kumar’s clean shop has attracted Indian regulars from across the peninsula since 2007. Salo's non-Indian lunch-timers cheekily ask for their curry 'hot' now. Start with a medium-heat mutton and bean quarter bunny in masala-rich gravy (R30). Find biryanis and fish curries on Fridays.